How to Build and Use an L7 Trap

What the L7 Trap Is

The L7 trap is a primitive trigger system with a snare that operates with a spring pole, or weight. When the snare gets triggered, it seperates the L and 7 sections making the spring pole shoot up, pulling the snare tight around the animal. One end of the L7 is anchored into the ground, the other attaches to the spring pole and snare and the L7 trigger assembly. This design turns a simple deadfall into a quick, humane capture or dispatch system for small game.

Why Use an L7 Snare System

rapid snare closure increases success rates.
Efficient materials: uses sticks, cordage, a weight, or a single spring pole.
Adjustable: scale tension and snare size for target species.
Low-tech and repairable: easy to build in the field with natural or carried materials.

Materials You’ll Need

Two trigger sticks (pencil-thick): one short (“L” 6–8"), one longer (“7” 8–10")
Snare wire or strong cordage (thin steel wire or Kevlar/dyneema is ideal)
Spring pole (or weight) : flexible sapling, long green switch, or pre-bent forked stick with stored tension
Anchor stake: forked stick or buried stake to hold snare anchor point
Bait: seeds, nuts, or native lure taylored to target species
Optional: Cordage maker, awl/knife

Step-by-Step: Build and Set the L7 Snare Trap

1. Prepare the Spring Pole

Select a green sapling or flexible green stick about 3–6 feet tall depending on desired snap. Bend it away from the trap site and secure it so it stores potential energy, either held down on the ground or lashed to a stake. One end will be attached to the snare; when released, it will snap upward.

2. Anchor the Snare

Drive or wedge an anchor stake in the ground opposite the spring pole. Fix one end of your L7 trap to this anchor.

3. Route the Snare to the Trigger

Run the snare loop toward the other side of the L7 trigger Tie your snare loop to the same portion of the L7 that is attached to the Spring Pole. When the snare gets pulled the L7 trigger is tripped, freeing the spring pole so it can shoot up, pulling the running end and closing the snare.

4. Build and Fit the L7 Trigger

Carve the notches on the “L” and “7” sticks so they interlock snugly. The 7-stick should hold the bait and be engaging the L-stick so the assembly keeps the deadfall weight and spring pole restrained. If using Grim trigger components, assemble according to the card’s layout.

5. Position the Deadfall Weight

You can set up the L7 to be triggered by a weight or stone. Tie one end of your L7 to an anchor, the other end is tied to your snare, and then tied to cordage that runs over a branch, with your weight attached to it. When the snare gets pulled, it releases the L7 trigger allowing the weight to fall, pulling the snare tight. Just be sure the weight is more than that of your prey animal.

6. Bait and Camouflage

Apply bait to the end of the 7-stick or place it just beyond the snare loop to lure the animal into the snare bite area. Lightly camouflage the setup with leaves and debris—don’t obstruct the trigger or snare run.

7. Test Carefully

Using a twig, tap the baited stick, or snare to ensure the L7 releases cleanly and the spring pole launches the snare smoothly. Adjust notch depth, snare loop length, or spring pole tension until the system is hair-trigger sensitive but not so fragile it trips from wind or rain.

How It Works (Mechanics)

The L7 holds the deadfall and keeps the spring pole restrained.
An animal disturbs the bait or snare run, the L7 releases.
Deadfall drops and/or a restraint releases the spring pole.
Spring pole snaps upward, pulling the snare running end and cinching the noose tight around the animal.

Pro Tips

Use green wood for springs: it stores and returns energy better than dry wood.
Square notches lock more reliably than rounded ones.
Short snare runs reduce tangling; keep the run straight and clear.
Tune tension: heavier spring = faster closure but harder to control.
Multiple small traps beat one large setup; spread them in likely paths.
Practice at home with a practice loop and stick until your release timing is consistent.

Using Grim Workshop L7 Trap Trigger Components

Your L7 trigger consists of:

Trigger Bar (flat piece with recessed step pattern OR C-shaped recess)
Toggle Bar / Latch Bar (the mating piece that interlocks with the trigger bar)
Snare line (running to the loop)
Anchor line
Line to bent sapling OR weight

These three lines are what make the L-configuration work when the two bars interlock.

Below is the full step-by-step field setup.

1. Choose Your Power Source

You can run this trap two ways:

Option A: Spring Pole Snare

Use a live sapling or branch
Bend it over so it is loaded with upward tension
Tie your main lift line to the tip
When released, it snaps upward rapidly

Option B: Weighted Drop Snare

Tie a rock, log, or heavy weight to the lift line
Lift it up and let the trigger hold it in place
When released, it drops straight down, tightening the snare

Both use the same trigger setup. Only the power source changes.

2. Set Your Anchor

This is the fixed point that the trap pulls against.

A tree trunk, stake, or root works
Tie the anchor line to it securely
Make sure it cannot move at all

Your diagram shows this line running downward from the trigger assembly to a ground anchor.

3. Prepare the Snare Loop

Tie a loop in your snare line
Use wire, bank line, or other cordage
Set the loop size based on your target (rabbit: 3–4 inches)

The snare line will later attach to the trigger assembly at the bottom end.

4. Attach Your Three Lines to the Trigger Assembly

Think of the L7 trigger as a small mechanical “switch” that coordinates three forces:

Line to Bent Sapling / Weight
Line to Snare
Line to Anchor

Your Grim Workshop trigger pieces have multiple holes so the lines stay balanced and tangle-free.

Tie the lift line (from sapling or weight) to the top hole
Tie the snare line to the front-facing hole
Tie the anchor line to the bottom hole

When the trigger is assembled, you want:

The sapling/weight pulling up
The anchor pulling down/back
The snare line pulling forward

That opposition keeps the trigger bars locked together until disturbed.

5. Interlock the Trigger Pieces

Now use the Grim Workshop trigger:

Version 1: Stepped Flat Trigger

The stepped recess fits into the matching stepped surface on the latch bar
When assembled, they form an “L” shape
The tension from the three lines keeps the stepped surfaces locked together
A tiny forward bump knocks it loose instantly

Version 2: C-Shaped Trigger

The curved cut allows the latch bar to sit inside the notch
Tension clamps it in place
Disturbing the bar causes the latch piece to rotate or slip out

Either works — the mechanics are the same.

6. Load the Trap

Now the trigger is assembled and the three lines are properly tied.

To set it:

Pull the sapling down (or lift your weight up)
Hold that tension steady
Engage the two trigger bars:
- The trigger bar is vertical
- The latch bar is horizontal, hooking into the recess

Once interlocked, the bars will “bite” into each other and hold all tension.

You’re now balancing three forces:

Upward pull (sapling/weight)
Downward/anchor pull
Forward snare pull

When the bars settle into the sweet spot, the trap stays cocked.

7. Place the Snare Loop

Position the loop at a natural choke point on a trail
At head height for the target
Use twigs or brush to funnel the animal into the loop

The snare line should run directly from the trigger assembly to the loop.

8. Trigger Action

When an animal bumps the snare:

The forward tension on the snare line nudges the horizontal latch bar
The latch bar slips out of the stepped or C-shaped recess
The vertical trigger bar instantly loses support
The sapling snaps upward OR the weight drops down
The snare tightens immediately, pulling the animal up or pinning it down

Your L7 trigger design makes this very sensitive — a tiny disturbance collapses the connection.

9. Common Tuning Tips

If it fires too easily:

Shift the latch bar a millimeter deeper into the recess

If it doesn’t fire easily enough:

Move the bars slightly apart
Reduce friction from bark or debris
Lower tension slightly on the lift line

These triggers are extremely tunable.

Complete Your Kit

Pair your L7 + snare setup with:

Tools with L7 Trap Components → All Tools with an L7 Trap
Grim Cordage Card for snare and anchor line → Explore All Cordage Tools

Safety & Legal Notes (Read before building)

Snares and traps are regulated in many areas. Always check local laws and never set traps where pets, livestock, or people may be harmed.
Use traps only in survival situations or where legal and ethical.
Mark trap sites clearly and check them frequently; avoid unnecessary suffering—aim for humane dispatch or quick capture.
Test and set traps with a stick, not your hands. Never place any body part in or under the deadfall.

FAQ — L7 Trap with Spring Pole

Q: What size game is this for?
A: Primarily small game—squirrels, rabbits, rats. With larger spring poles and heavier deadfalls, you can scale up, but risks and legality increase.

Q: How far should the snare loop be from the trigger?
A: Keep the snare run short and directly in the spring pole’s path—roughly 6–18 inches depending on how you position the anchor and pole.

Q: Can I use cordage instead of wire?
A: Yes—use Dyneema, Kevlar, or tarred bank line for strength. Wire is thinner and cuts quicker; choose based on target species and what you can legally use.

Q: How do I avoid false triggers?
A: Reduce wind exposure, secure loose leaves that can brush the trigger, and adjust notch depth so it requires deliberate contact.

Q: How long does it take to make one?
A: With practice, 5–15 minutes for a basic L7; longer if you prep a spring pole and set a snare calmly.

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