How to Make and Use a Hunting Spear

A spear is one of the oldest hunting tools. It is simple to make, easy to repair, and useful for both thrusting and throwing. This guide shows a beginner how to build a practical hunting spear from common materials, how to haft points securely, and how to use the spear safely and effectively for thrusting and for throwing.

What a Spear is, in Simple Terms

A spear is a long shaft with a strong point fixed to one end. The point does the damage, the shaft gives reach and leverage. Some spears are made to be thrust only, others are built for throwing. A good hunting spear balances strength, straightness, and secure hafting of the point.

Parts of a spear

1. Shaft, the long wooden pole you hold

2. Point or head, wooden, stone, bone, or metal

3. Socket, ferrule, or tang, how the head attaches to the shaft

4. Bindings and glue, sinew, cordage, or modern adhesives that hold everything tight

5. Butt or grip, sometimes reinforced so the rear does not split

Choosing and preparing the shaft

Length and diameter

• For thrusting only, 5 to 6 feet works well for most people.

• For throwing, shorter 4 to 5 foot spears are easier to manage.

• Diameter around 1 to 1.25 inch works for most shafts. Thicker shafts resist breakage but add weight.

Wood choices

• Ash, hickory, oak, and maple are great. They are springy and strong.

• Willow or hazel can be used for lighter practice spears.

• River cane or bamboo make great throwing shafts when you need light flex and straightness.

Straight grain matters

• Look down the shaft, roll it between your hands. It should roll true, no wobble.

• Avoid big knots and rot. Small knots are okay if the shaft flexes evenly.

Prepare the shaft

• Remove bark, smooth any bumps with a knife or file.

• Straighten minor bends by heating over coals and bending gently, then hold until cool.

• Seal the shaft with oil, wax, or resin to reduce moisture uptake.

Making or choosing a spear point

Options for points

• Sharpened wooden point for practice or simple thrusting. Whittle a long tapered point, then fire harden it.

• Bone or antler point lashed into a split shaft for primitive strength.

• Stone point flaked and hafted with resin and sinew, good for primitive builds.

• Metal spearhead Metal Spear heads are durable and reliable for quick deployment and long lasting results. 

Spear Point Styles

1) Fishing spear / gig spear

What it is

• Multi-prong or barbed head designed to grab slippery fish. Often 2–4 prongs or a single point with barbs.

Best uses

• Bowfishing, wading, shallow water hunting of fish, frogs, and similar targets.

Typical build & materials

• Steel prongs, welded to a small ferrule or socket. Can be homemade from nails, wire, or scrap metal. Works best on bamboo or cane shafts.

How it works

• Prongs or barbs expand or grab on impact so the fish can’t easily slide off.

Field tips

• Attach a retrieval line to the shaft. Use heavier, durable cord.

• Oiling after use prevents rust.

Pros / Cons

• Very effective in water, reusable.

• Can be dangerous; poor aim causes wounding or lost fish. Check local laws.

→ View Gig Spears

3) Broadhead spear

 

What it is

• Wide, razor-edged head similar to archery broadheads. Can be fixed blade or mechanical.

Best uses

• Medium to large game hunting where deep cutting and rapid blood loss give humane kills.

Typical build & materials

• Hardened steel blades mounted to a ferrule or socket. Often 2–4 blades.

How it works

• Large cutting surface severs tissue and causes heavy bleeding; built for terminal performance.

Field tips

• Only use if legal and if you know precise shot placement. Keep blades sharp and protected. Broadheads require properly tuned shafts and close-range shots.

Pros / Cons

• • Highly lethal if used correctly.

• − Dangerous, needs skill and legal clearance. Not for beginners without training.

→ View Broadhead Spears

4) Flat spear (leaf or lance style)

What it is

• A flattened, leaf-shaped point that broadens toward the center then tapers to edges (think classic spearhead).

Best uses

• General-purpose hunting, thrusting, and display of primitive craft.

Typical build & materials

• Forged or flaked stone, antler, or hammered metal shaped into a thin, wide profile and hafted into a socket.

How it works

• Thin edge cuts on entry; broader midsection creates larger wound channel for effective stopping power.

Field tips

• If using stone, lash tightly and back with resin. Metal versions need a solid socket and pin.

Pros / Cons

• • Versatile and good for thrusting.

• − Stone versions can be brittle; metal is best for repeated use.

→ View Flat Spears

5) Small-game spear (blunt & narrow point options)

What it is

• Small, often sharp-tipped or slightly blunted heads optimized for small animals (rabbits, birds).

Best uses

• Small game where you want quick stun/stop without overkill.

Typical build & materials

• Small metal points, sharpened bone tips, or blunt wooden knobs. Blunts transfer impact energy without deep penetration.

How it works

• Blunt points stun or break bone for quick dispatch; narrow sharp points allow precise hits for small targets.

Field tips

• Use small-game heads at very close range. Practice to ensure humane placement.

Pros / Cons

• Lightweight and easier to throw.

• Less effective on big game.

→ View Small Game Spears

Hafting methods

1. Split socket

   • Split the shaft tip down 1.5 to 2 inches.

   • Insert the tang or base of the point between the halves.

   • Close the split and wrap tightly with sinew, cord, or tape. Glue with resin or modern adhesive if available.

2. Socket fit

   • Use a metal ferrule that slides over the shaft end and receives the point.

   • Secure with pins, wrapping, and glue.

3. Tanged head

   • If the point has a tang, drill or carve a hole into the shaft and drive the tang in. Wrap and glue around the joint.

Check fit and alignment

• Roll the finished spear on a flat surface. The point should spin true, no wobble.

• Hit the shaft near the head firmly with the palm to test for looseness. Rebind if it moves.

Reinforcing the butt and grip

• Wrap the handle area with leather, cloth, or paracord for comfort and to prevent splitting.

• Add a small metal or wrapped butt cap for extra durability if you plan on thrusting into hard targets.

How to carry and store a spear safely

• Carry point down and away from people and gear.

• Use a simple sheath or wrap the point with cloth before putting it in a pack.

• Unstring or unhaft and store parts separately for long term storage to avoid stress on the head joint.

How to Thrust a Spear, step by step

Thrusting is controlled, close, and precise. It is the primary technique for heavier, longer spears.

1. Stance and footwork

   • Stand with feet shoulder width apart, knees slightly bent. If right handed, left foot forward. Keep weight balanced.

   • Step forward with the lead foot when you commit to the thrust.

2. Grip and hold

   • Hold near the balance point or with one hand close to the head and the other near the butt for reach and control.

   • Use a firm but not crushing grip.

3. Aim sights

   • Use the shaft as a sighting rod. Align the target with the tip and the forward hand.

   • Keep both eyes open for depth perception if you are comfortable doing so.

4. Generate power from the legs and core

   • Push with the hips and legs, not just the arms. The thrust should be a strong forward push, not a short jab.

   • Drive the rear hand forward while the front hand guides.

5. Follow through and withdraw safely

   • After contact, withdraw the spear straight back along the same line. Do not twist the shaft while withdrawing.

   • If the spear hits bone or a heavy object, avoid forcing it out. Retreat and reassess. Cutting and cleaning the wound is essential to avoid unnecessary suffering.

Safety notes for thrusting

• Keep your non thrusting hand clear of the target.

• Do not thrust at targets beyond effective reach. Overreaching causes loss of balance and control.

• Practice slow and controlled drills on padded targets before live practice.

Spear throwing technique

Throwing a spear is different. It relies on speed, timing, and the spear shaft acting like a lever or a flying rod.

Spears made for throwing

• Throwing spears are usually shorter and lighter, with a more flexible shaft and balanced point.
  

1. Grip and hold for throwing

   • Hold the spear near the balance point, not at the very butt. Some people use a two finger pinch behind the mid point.

   • For underhand throws hold more in the middle. For overhand throws hold slightly back so the spear rotates forward.

2. Stance and step

   • Face slightly sideways to the target, with your throwing shoulder back.

   • Step forward with the foot opposite your throwing arm as you release. This adds forward momentum and distance.

3. Throwing motion, overhand style

   • Bring the spear back under shoulder level, elbow up.

   • Pull forward with a strong hip and shoulder rotation, snap your wrist at the end to point the tip forward.

   • Release when your arm is extended toward the target and your weight has transferred to the front foot.

4. Throwing motion, underhand style

   • Swing the spear forward like a javelin toss, release at waist or hip height depending on range.

   • Underhand throws can be more accurate at short range for beginners.

5. Aim and release timing

   • Release is everything. Practice until your spear leaves the hand with point forward. Early or late release makes the spear tumble or land blunt.

6. Practice distances

   • Start at 10 to 15 yards for safety and accuracy. Gradually move back only when you can consistently hit a target.

Safety and ethics for throwing

• Only throw at legal game and in safe open ranges. Avoid ricochet risk by using soft backed targets.

• Throwing spears with heavy points can be lethal at short range. Practice, and respect local hunting laws and humane dispatch requirements.

Legal, safety, and ethical reminders

• Check local hunting regulations before using a spear for hunting. Many jurisdictions regulate weapon types and seasons.

• Only take shots that ensure a quick and humane kill. Practice and skill matter.

• Never use a spear where bystanders might be injured. Treat every spear as a dangerous weapon.

Now lets go make a Spear! 

When you make a spear and practice both thrusting and throwing, you build a useful survival skill set. Start simple, test carefully, and maintain your gear. A well made spear is low tech, repairable, and effective when used with good technique and respect for safety.

FAQ

Q: How long should my first spear be
A: For learning, make a 5 foot spear that works for both thrusting and short range throwing. As you gain skill, you can make longer or shorter models for specific tasks.

Q: Can I use a spear to hunt big game
A: In some traditional systems and places, yes. Modern hunting laws vary. Spear hunting large game requires advanced skill, and in many areas it is restricted or illegal.

Q: What is better for beginners, metal or wooden points
A: Metal points are easier to tune and more durable. Wooden or bone points are fine for practice and primitive skill building. Use metal when you want reliable performance.

Q: How do I know when the head is tight enough
A: The head should not wobble when you strike the shaft with the palm. If it moves at all, rebind and add glue until firm.

Q: Should I fire harden a wooden point
A: Yes for durability. Heat the tip near coals while rotating, stop when the wood darkens a little. Do not burn it.

Q: How do I stop a spear from splitting when hafting a head
A: Saw, don't split the wood, and drive a thin wedge after inserting the head in a split shaft to spread the grain and lock the head. Wrap the split tight and glue if available.

Q: How far can I throw a hunting spear
A: A trained thrower can reach 30 yards or more, but effective, accurate hunting shots are usually much closer. For beginners, shoot within 10 to 20 yards.

Related links

• Category: Hunting Tools

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