How to Make and Use a Fishing Spear

Learn how to make and use a fishing spear for survival. Covers gigs, single-barbed spearheads, building steps, aiming tips, and field use for beginners.

How to Use a Fishing Spear

What is a fishing spear?

A fishing spear is a pointed implement used to catch fish by thrusting or throwing. Simple, quiet, and effective when you can see fish close to shore, in shallows, or while snorkeling. Spearing is low-tech, renewable, and satisfying — but it’s also skillful. The basics are simple: present a point to the fish and make the strike count.

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Types of fishing spear tips

Gig (multi-pronged) — Two, three, or more tines like a fork. Great for shallow water or when the target is squirmy. Bigger spread increases hit chance but can be bulkier and snag more.

Single-barbed spearhead — A single point with one or more backward barbs. Penetrates deep and holds fish on the shaft. Simpler to craft and better for larger fish or clear water.

Stone or bone tips — Traditional, useful when metal isn’t available. Can be hafted to a shaft with cordage and resin.
Wood spear points — Wood spear tips are cheap, readily available, and craftable in large quantities if you understand how to make one.

Which to choose: gigs for small schooling fish or murky water, single barbs for targeted strikes and larger fish.

How to make a basic fishing spear (practical, field-friendly)

Materials

Shaft: straight pole 6–10 ft for wading, 8–12 ft for shore use. Thinner than a huntnig spear, these need to have little resistance in the water, and you want a dense wood if possible. think 1/2" to 3/4" in diameter. Hardwoods like ash, hickory, oak, or a sturdy bamboo. Smooth, straight, and comfortable to grip.
Tip: metal tine(s), or a sharpened hardwood/bone tip. For gigs, 2–3 tines.
Fastening: split-shaft socket by sawing a slot to mount your spear head, and tie with strong cordage (paracord, twisted inner paracord, rawhide), epoxy or heated resin if available.

Build steps — simple socketed spear

Pick and prepare the shaft — remove bark, sand rough spots, and taper the end slightly to accept the tip.

Add a tip — a metal point or multi-tine gig.

Create the socket — either carve, or saw a shallow socket into the tapered end or split the shaft a few inches and insert the spear shank between the split halves. Be aware splitting the shaft can cause further splitting when you use the spear. Creating a socket by carving, or sawing, is the optimum option for long term viability. If you do split the shaft, you can insert a small shim that's glued and tied in place to help support the spear head and reduce further splitting.

Fix it in place — lash tightly with cordage in a crisscross pattern, then wrap with additional cord and coat with epoxy, glue, or melted resin to lock it. For a split socket, drive a small wooden wedge to close the split onto the tang.

Test and trim — ensure the head is secure, give firm tugs, and smooth the shaft for comfort. Add a short crosspiece or grip tape where your rear hand sits.

DIY tip: for a quick field spear, sharpen one end of a thick stick, carve small barbs with a knife, and harden the tip over coals. Not as reliable but will work short term.

How to spear a fish — step-by-step

Scout and approach
- Look for shallow flats, weed edges, rockpools, or current seams where fish feed.
- Move slowly, low, and quiet, rest regularly and sit very still. Fish see motion above water and can spook easily. Use low crouches resting periods, or take advantage of cover like reeds or rocks.
Position and range
- Ideal range is within arm’s reach for thrust spearing. Throwing spears need more practice and more distance.
- Angle yourself so the fish is between you and your exit route; avoid sun glare in your eyes.
Aim—lead the target
- Fish refract light; they appear offset from their actual position. Aim slightly below and forward of where the fish looks like it is (depends on angle and depth). As a rule: if the fish is shallow and directly in front, aim lower; if deeper, adjust less as three is less refraction.
The strike
- For a thrust spear: step forward, plant rear foot, drive the spear forward through the fish in a single committed motion using shoulders and core — don’t jab with the wrist only. Lift up, not back to remove the fish from the water.
- For a throwing spear: a smooth, underhand or overhand cast with follow-through. Practice small throws first to learn distance and arc, as this requires much more skill than thrusting.
Recovering the catch
- If the fish is speared but not secured, stay cautious — struggling fish can cut lines or jerk free. Use a short retrieval line or slip the shaft under the belly and lift. Lift straight up to avoid slippage.
- Dispatch humanely and quickly.
Field processing
- Keep fish on ice or in shade. Clean as soon as practical. Use your hunting/processing tools to field dress. → Learn how to clean a fish

Complete your kit

Pair a spear with: a decent cutting knife, cordage, a small float/retrieval line, and a field dressing kit. Practice on stationary targets and shallow water before depending on the spear.
→ Explore Grim Workshop Fishing Spears

→ Read: → Learn how to clean a fish

→ Read: → How to Make a Hunting Spear

Safety, ethics, and legal notes

Check local laws — spearfishing, even shore-based, is regulated in many places (season, species, size, methods). Always verify before you go.
Safety first — sharp points, long shafts, and water create hazards. Don’t swing spears around others; keep a safe carry position. Watch for submerged hazards that can snag you.
Ethical shots only — take only clear, humane shots. Don’t spear protected species. Respect bag limits.
Visibility — use flagging or a float if required by law or for safety when spearing from a boat.

Tips & tactics

Use polarized sunglasses to reduce surface glare and spot fish more easily.
Approach from downwind or into current so your profile is less obvious.
In clear water, move slowly and keep low, make regular pauses where you don't move unless to strike. In murky water, use a gig to increase success.
Practice aim on stationary targets before live use.

Maintenance & storage

Rinse metal tips with fresh water after saltwater use; dry and oil to prevent rust.
Replace cordage tying the head if it loosens.
Store with tip protected (leather sleeve or wrapped cloth).
Regularly check shaft for cracks or rot; replace if compromised.

Suggested kit (what to carry)

Sturdy shaft (6–12 ft depending on use and strike range)
One multi-tine gig and one single-barb spearhead (or removable heads)
Short length of shock cord or retrieval line with float on the spear
Small sheath knife or multi-tool for processing
Gloves for handling fish and sharp gear
Polarized sunglasses and sun protection
Basic first aid kit and communication device

DIY options: carved hardwood shaft, sharpened bone point, rawhide lashings, and improvised retrieval float from a bottle.

FAQ — Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I spear fish at night?
A: In many places it’s illegal; in some spots it’s allowed with lights. Check local regulations. Night spearing is riskier and needs extra safety gear, but it's very effective.

Q: Which is better: gig or single barb?
A: Gigs increase hit probability for small schooling fish or murky water. Single-barb heads penetrate deeper and hold larger fish better it's also based on personal preferences

Q: How deep can I spear from shore?
A: Practical range for thrust spearing is waist to chest deep. For throwing, depends on skill — aim for fish within comfortable casting range.

Q: Is spearing humane?
A: When done correctly — a single quick, well-placed strike — yes. Poor shots that only wound require quick dispatch, so practice and restraint matter.