Arrow Making For Beginners

How to Make an Arrow for Beginners

Making your own arrow is a great first step into primitive hunting and archery. A good arrow is straight, balanced, and built to fly the same way every time. This guide shows you how to make a basic wooden arrow using simple tools and materials you can pack in an Altoids tin or fit in your pocket.

What you will need

• Straight wooden shaft about 28 to 32 inches long. Cedar, birch, or poplar work well.

• A small hand saw.

• A pocket knife or small sanding block.

• Feathers for fletchings, 3 per arrow. Turkey or goose feathers are common.

• Glue. Natural hide glue, pine pitch glue or modern wood glue all work.

• Sinew, strong string, or a bit of fine cordage to wrap the fletchings.

• An arrow point. You can use a field point, a broadhead for hunting, or sharpen and fire harden the shaft into a simple point for practice.

• A small file or stone to shape the nock and point.

• A straightedge or a line of sight to check shaft straightness.

• A ruler or measuring tool.

Picking and Preparing the Arrow Shaft

The shaft is the spine of your arrow, literally. It decides how straight your shots fly, how hard they hit, and whether they survive the first impact. Picking the right shaft material is half the battle.

You can make arrows from all kinds of natural materials — not just wood — but the key is always the same: straight grain, balanced weight, and natural resilience.

Ideal Shaft Dimensions

For most traditional bows and primitive hunting setups:

• Length: 26–32 inches (about the same as your draw length)

• Diameter: Between ¼ inch and ⅜ inch

  • Thicker shafts hit harder and resist breaking.

  • Thinner shafts fly faster but may flex more and require careful straightening
    

If you’re building arrows for a low-draw or field bow, aim closer to ¼". For hunting-weight bows, 5/16"–3/8" gives the right stiffness and mass.

Rule of thumb: If your arrow bends noticeably when you flex it, it’s too soft. If it barely flexes at all, it’s too stiff. You want just a little spring.

Best Materials for Arrow Shafts

Primitive arrows weren’t always carved from trees. People used whatever straight, light, and tough material was available.

Here are some reliable options you can find in most regions:

You don’t need to use tree wood — in fact, cane or strong plant stalks often make better arrows because they’re already naturally straight and balanced.

Avoiding Weak or Problematic Wood

Not all straight sticks make good arrows. Here’s what to watch for:

• Knots:

  • Small, smooth knots are okay if the shaft bends evenly through them.

  • Large or rough knots create hard spots that throw off flex and can cause breakage.

  • If a knot sticks out like a bump or twist, skip it — it’ll never straighten properly, and could damage your bow, injure your hand (if shooting from the hand) and won't fly true.

• Grain Direction:

  • The grain should run parallel to the shaft from end to end.

  • Wavy or spiral grain causes the arrow to curve or “snake” during flight.

• Center Pith:

  • Some plants have a soft pith (like elderberry or sumac). These can be too weak unless reinforced or wrapped.

  • Hollow cane and bamboo are fine because the walls are strong and elastic.

• Weight Balance:

  • Feel the shaft in your hand — it should feel balanced, not heavy on one end or spongy in the middle.

  • If one end feels dense and the other soft, that arrow will fly crooked.

How to Tell if a Shaft Will Make a Good Arrow

Here’s a simple field test:

1. Hold the shaft by one end and tap it lightly against a log or your boot.

   • A clean, high-pitched “ting” means it’s solid and dry.

   • A dull “thud” means it’s green, damp, or pithy inside.

2. Flex it gently between your hands. It should bend slightly and spring back to straight — no cracking, creaking, or permanent bend.

3. Roll it between your palms or on a flat surface. It should spin smoothly with no wobble.

If it passes those three tests, it’s a keeper.

Straightening the Shaft

Even the best natural shaft needs a little correction. Here’s how to fix bends or warps:

• For Green Wood:

  • Warm the bent area gently over coals or a candle flame until it feels hot to the touch.

  • Bend it straight by hand or between two blocks. Hold it until it cools — the heat resets the wood fibers.

• For Cane or Bamboo:

  • Heat works perfectly. Roll it gently over a flame while pressing against a flat surface.

  • Bamboo will hiss or crackle slightly as internal moisture escapes — that’s normal.

• For Dried Shoots:

  • Damp the area slightly before applying heat to avoid cracking.

You can use a small flame, hot sand, or even a rock warmed by fire. The key is steady heat, not sudden flame contact.

Curing and Hardening

If you cut fresh shafts, they’ll need to dry.

• Bundle them in groups of 4–6 with the straightest in the middle.

• Hang them in a warm, dry place or above a campfire (not in direct smoke).

• Rotate daily until they feel dry and ring sharply when tapped.

Cane and bamboo dry quickly — sometimes within hours — while hardwood shoots can take days or weeks depending on thickness.

Optional Primitive Touch – Fire Hardening

Once cured, you can lightly heat the shaft over coals to harden the outer surface.

• Keep the shaft moving so it doesn’t scorch.

• You’re looking for a light golden-brown finish — not char.

• This step strengthens the surface and helps prevent moisture absorption in humid weather.

2. Check straightness and spine

1. Roll the shaft on a flat surface. If it wobbles, bend it gently the other way and rest until it holds its shape.

2. A good arrow has consistent stiffness along its length. If one end is much thicker, whittle it slightly to balance the feel.

3. Make the nock

1. Mark the back end of the shaft for the nock. Leave 3 quarter inch to 1 inch for the nock area.

2. Use a small knife or file to cut a shallow groove across the end. The groove should be wide enough for your bowstring but not so deep that it splits the shaft.

3. Test the nock by hooking it on the bowstring gently. It should hold but slide off cleanly when released.

4. Fitting the Point

The arrowhead (or “point”) is the business end of your arrow.
It decides what your arrow can do — whether it’s for target practice, small-game hunting, or survival use.

For beginners, the good news is that you have plenty of options, from easy field improvisations to fully reusable steel points. The important part is making sure whatever you choose fits tightly and stays centered on the shaft.

How to Shape the Tip of the Shaft

Before you attach any point, you’ll need to prepare the front of the shaft:

1. Taper the end into a long, smooth cone about 1 inch long.

   • This makes it easier to attach points or sharpen directly into a wooden tip.

2. Keep the taper centered.

   • A crooked taper will throw off your flight path immediately.

3. Smooth any rough edges with a small file, stone, or sandpaper

If you’re using hollow materials like river cane or bamboo, you’ll need to fill or plug the inside with a small wooden dowel first. The plug gives your point something solid to bite into and prevents the shaft from splitting on impact.

Beginner-Friendly Arrowhead Options

Different points serve different purposes. Here’s a simple breakdown of the most common types — from easiest to most advanced.

1. Sharpened Wooden Point

The simplest option — perfect for beginners or practice arrows.

• Use your knife to whittle the tip into a sharp cone.

• Fire-harden it by holding it near coals or a small flame until the color darkens slightly.

• Rotate it constantly to avoid scorching one side.

These work great for target shooting or small-game stumping (practice on logs or ground targets).

Pro Tip: Re-harden after each use — fire-hardened wood dulls over time.

2. Bone or Antler Points

A classic primitive choice that’s still field-ready today.

• Shape a thin sliver of bone or antler into a small triangle or cone.

• File or sand the base flat.

• Split the end of your arrow shaft about ½ inch deep with your knife tip.

• Insert the base of the point and wrap the joint tightly with sinew or cordage.

Let the sinew or glue dry before using. These are tough, reusable, and silent on release.

3. Stone Points (Flint, Obsidian, Chert)

For those who want to go full primitive.

• Carefully flake stone into a flat, triangular point.

• Make a small split in the shaft about ½ inch deep.

• Insert the stone tip carefully, using glue (pine pitch, resin, or sap) and wrap with cordage.

Stone points are incredibly sharp but brittle. They’re better for learning history and craftsmanship than everyday practice use. For a beginner, look for a stone that's already got the proper shape, knapping stone is it's own skill that we'll discuss later.

(We’ll have a full guide on [Making Stone Arrowheads] in the future.)

4. Metal or Scrap Points

Primitive doesn’t mean you can’t improvise.

• Old nails, spoons, saw blades, or even tin can lids can be shaped into small triangular points.

• File sharp edges carefully and smooth any burrs.

• Fit and wrap like a stone or bone point.

Great for backyard experiments or when you want durability without full forging.

5. Pre-Made Steel Arrowheads

The easiest, safest, and most accurate option for beginners.

Pre-made steel arrowheads that are ready to attach to any wooden, bamboo, or cane shaft. They’re perfectly balanced, reusable, and field-tested for both hunting and survival training.

You can find them here:
→ Pre-Made Steel Arrowheads

To attach:

1. Cut or sand your shaft to a slightly tapered point

2. cut vertically across the tip to make a slot for the arrowhead to slide into

3. Apply strong glue or pine resin to the tip

4. Wrap tightly with sinew, string, or fine wire for added hold.

These are ideal for beginners — simple to install, reliable in flight, and reusable for years.

6. Blunt Tips (for Practice or Small Game)

If you’re just learning to shoot or practicing form, blunt tips are your best friend.

• Carve or attach a rounded wooden or bone cap.

• You can also press a small metal washer or coin against the tip before wrapping.

• These hit targets without piercing deeply, making them perfect for training or small-game hunting (rabbits, squirrels, etc.).

How to Make One

For a simple field blunt:

1. Carve a slightly rounded wooden tip on your arrow shaft.

2. Fire-harden it gently over coals.

3. Wrap a thin band of sinew or cord just behind the tip to prevent splitting.

For a metal blunt or washer head:

1. Slide a washer or small nut over the tapered tip.

2. Wrap and glue it securely at the base.

3. Test impact on soft wood to ensure it holds firm.

7. Broadheads (Advanced)

Once you’re comfortable with bow building and shooting, you can step up to broadheads the wide, razor-edged hunting points designed for quick, humane kills.

For now, beginners should avoid broadheads until they’ve mastered arrow flight and control. They require consistent arrow tuning and precise aim to use safely and effectively.

8. Fishing Arrow Points (Gig Points)

Fishing arrow points, or gig points, turn your bow into a hunting and fishing tool in one. These specialized tips are designed to penetrate slippery fish, hold them securely, and let you retrieve your arrow after every shot. Ideally fishing arrows won't have fletchings on them. 

 

Fishing arrow points are ideal for:

• Shallow-water bowfishing (carp, gar, catfish, tilapia)

• Frogging and small amphibian hunting

• Survival scenarios where you want silent, reusable fishing gear

→ See them here: Fishing Arrow Points & Gigs

How to Check Alignment

Once your point is attached:

1. Roll the arrow on a flat surface.

2. Watch the tip closely — it should spin perfectly without wobble.

3. If it wobbles, re-seat or sand the taper slightly until it spins true.

Balanced arrows fly straight; even a slightly crooked point will veer off target fast.

Field Maintenance Tip

If your point loosens in the field:

• Warm the glue joint over a flame to re-soften and reset.

• Add a new wrap of cordage or thread.

• For steel heads, a dab of pine pitch, hot glue, or wax can secure it until you get home.

Step 5: Fletching Your Arrow

What is Fletching?

Fletching is what keeps your arrow flying straight instead of tumbling through the air.
Those feathers at the back of the shaft stabilize flight by creating spin — the same principle as rifling inside a gun barrel.

Even if your shaft is perfectly straight and your point perfectly centered, an arrow without fletching will fly wild. These small vanes of feather, tape, or fur are what make your arrow true.

Choosing the Right Feathers

You don’t need exotic feathers to get started — just something sturdy, long, and curved.

Good options include:

• Turkey feathers: Classic choice — durable and widely used.

• Goose or duck feathers: Softer, great for practice arrows.

• Pheasant or chicken feathers: Easy to find, good for small arrows.

• Crow or gull feathers: Usable, but check local regulations — some species are protected.

Pro Tip: If you’re building quick field arrows, even duct tape, thin bark, paper, or leaves can act as temporary fletchings. Symmetry matters more than material.

Left vs. Right Wing Feathers

Feathers curve either left or right depending on which wing they came from.
You can tell by holding one flat — if it curves right, it’s a right-wing feather; if it curves left, it’s a left-wing feather.

Always use three feathers from the same wing side on each arrow, or they’ll fight each other in flight. Right-wing feathers make arrows spin clockwise, left-wing counterclockwise — both work perfectly fine as long as you’re consistent. So check that all your feathers curve the same direction.

Preparing and Trimming the Feathers

1. Split the quill: Use your knife or fingernail to split the thick center quill in half. Use the flatter side that sits cleanly against the shaft.

2. Trim the base: Sand or shave down thick edges so the quill lays flat.

3. Cut to length: Around 4–5 inches long is ideal for most arrows (longer feathers slow flight slightly but add stability).

4. Trim: Trim excess bits and stray pieces off so you have a trangular shaped fletching.

How to Attach the Feathers

Typically each arrow usually has three feathers, evenly spaced around the back end (roughly 120° apart).

1. Mark the positions near the nock (about 1 inch forward).

2. Apply glue or resin — pine resin, hide glue, or wood glue all work.

3. Press and align the first feather straight down the shaft.

4. Attach the remaining two feathers evenly spaced around it.

5. Wrap the front and back ends of the feathers with sinew, thread, or cord to protect the edges from wear and prevent peeling.

Let everything dry completely before shooting.

Primitive and Improvised Fletching Options

If you’re in the field and short on supplies:

• Duct tape: Cut matching triangles and stick them evenly around the shaft.

• Leaves or bark: Lash three small, stiff leaves in place with cord.

• Animal fur or fiber: Wrap small tufts to add drag for short-range arrows.

These won’t win archery competitions, but they’ll stabilize an arrow enough for practice or survival situations.

Alternate Fletching Styles

Once you’ve mastered the classic three-feather setup, you can experiment with alternate fletching styles. Primitive archers often adjusted their arrows to suit the environment or the type of hunting they were doing.

Two-Fletch Arrows

Instead of three feathers, this setup uses two long feathers placed directly opposite each other.

• Advantages: Lighter, faster, and quicker to build.

• How to make:

  • Use two feathers of equal size and curve.

  • Place them 180° apart and follow the natural feather curve for mild spin.

  • Glue and wrap as normal.

• Best for: Quick field arrows, short-range hunting, or survival builds.

Pro Tip: Two-fletch arrows are great when supplies are limited. They fly surprisingly well at short distances.

Flu-Flu Fletching

Flu-flu arrows are built to fly short and slow, perfect for bird hunting, aerial targets, or safe backyard shooting. Their large, fluffy fletchings create heavy drag, slowing the arrow within about 30–50 yards.

Two ways to make them:

1. Spiral Flu-Flu:

   • Take one long feather (10–12 inches).

   • Split it and wrap it in a spiral around the back of the shaft.

   • Glue lightly and fluff it up for more drag.

2. Full Flu-Flu (6-Feather Style):

   • Use 5–6 shorter, fluffy feathers instead of 3.

   • Space them evenly around the shaft and leave them untrimmed.

3.  Improvised Full Flu-Flu :

• • Animal Fur tufts tied or glued to the end of your arrow

  • Old plastic bags torn into fine strips then cut, fluffed, and attached.

Straight vs. Helical Fletching

There are two main ways to position your feathers for traditional style fletchings that use feathers, tape, paper, and similar materials:

If you’re hand-building, following the feather’s natural curve automatically creates a slight helical pattern no adjustments required.

Testing and Adjusting Fletching

Once your fletchings are dry:

1. Spin the arrow gently between your fingers or on a flat surface.

2. Watch for wobble — the feathers should be balanced and evenly spaced.

3. Trim any long strands or uneven edges.

If the arrow fishtails or wobbles in flight, check for:

• Uneven feather length

• Crooked feather placement

• One feather missing or bent

Straightening or rewrapping usually fixes it.

7. Final finish

1. Lightly sand any rough spots.

2. Optionally seal the shaft with a thin coat of natural oil, wax, or shellac to help resist moisture. Let dry fully.

3. Test the arrow on a target at short range to check flight and stability. Adjust nock, spine, or fletch angle if it wobbles.

Safety and rules

• Always point arrows in a safe direction.

• Never dry fire a bow without an arrow.

• Use broadheads only when you are legal and practiced with them.

• Follow your local hunting laws and seasons.

• If you are unsure about a step, practice with blunt points and soft targets first.

Tuning tips for beginners

• If the arrow veers left or right, rotate the nock slightly or change which side of the shaft the feathers sit on.

• If the arrow bounces or tumbles, add more fletching area or move the balance point slightly forward.

• Keep arrows the same length and weight for consistent shooting. Make a set of three or four that match.

Quick field repairs

• Loose fletchings can be rewrapped with cordage and glued.

• Small cracks near the nock can be wrapped tightly with thread or cord and sealed with glue.

• If a shaft splits badly, retire it and use the clean section for a short practice arrow or a stake.

For more, check out our full bow, arrow, and shooting guide. 

→ How to Make a Bow

→ How to Make an Arrow

→ How to Shoot a Bow and Arrow

FAQ Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What wood is best for arrows
A: Cedar, birch, and poplar are easy to work and fairly straight. Hardwoods can work but are harder to whittle and tune.

Q: How long should my arrow be
A: Start with 28 to 32 inches for most beginner bows. Match arrows to your draw length as you get more practiced.

Q: Do I need three feathers
A: Three feathers spaced evenly make the arrow spin and fly straight. You can use two for simple practice arrows but flight will be less stable.

Q: What’s the best beginner material for arrow shafts?
A: River cane or straight dogwood shoots. They’re strong, easy to straighten, and readily available.

Q: Can I use bamboo garden stakes?
A: Absolutely. They’re great for practice arrows and are already cured and hollow like natural cane.

Q: Are knots okay in arrow shafts?
A: Small, smooth knots are fine if the shaft still flexes evenly. Avoid large or twisted knots that cause uneven bend points.

Q: How do I know if a shaft is too soft?
A: If it bends more than an inch when you press both ends toward each other, it’s likely too weak. Try a thicker piece or a denser wood.

Q: Can I mix materials?
A: Yes — some primitive builders join a cane front to a hardwood nock section for balance and durability.

Q: Can I use regular arrows for bowfishing?
A: You can, but it’s better to use heavier, non-feathered shafts with fishing points. They travel straighter underwater and are easier to retrieve.

Q: Do I need a special bow for fishing arrows?
A: Not necessarily — a standard low to mid-poundage bow works fine. Just use arrows made for water shots and attach a retrieval line.

Q: Can I make my own gig point?
A: Yes! You can sharpen and barb a few nails or wire prongs, then lash them to your shaft — but store-bought steel gigs are safer and more consistent.

Q: Are fishing points reusable?
A: Definitely. Rinse them after each use, oil them to prevent rust, and they’ll last years.

Q: How many feathers should a beginner use?
A: Start with three. It’s the most stable and reliable design for new archers.

Q: Can I make arrows with two feathers?
A: Yes — two-fletch arrows are quicker to make and great for field practice. Just keep them opposite each other for balance.

Q: What’s a flu-flu arrow?
A: A short-range arrow with oversized fletchings that slow it down quickly — great for bird hunting or safe training.

Q: Can I use tape instead of feathers?
A: Definitely. Duct tape or lightweight plastic strips work fine for emergency arrows.

Q: How can I keep my fletchings dry?
A: Rub a thin coat of wax or oil on the feathers and store arrows in a dry container or tube.

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