How to Stand, Draw, and Shoot a Bow: A Beginner’s Guide

Shooting a bow is simple to start and endlessly deep to master. This guide walks you through the basics: how to stand, how to draw, how to release, and how to shoot at a target safely and consistently. No high-tech gear required—just practice, patience, and a steady routine.

Why this matters

Good form makes shots repeatable. Repeatable shots mean arrows land where you expect. That’s the difference between an arrow that finds a target and one that disappears in the brush. This guide keeps things simple so you can practice right away and improve every time you step to the line.

Step 1: Safety first

Before you ever nock an arrow:

• Make sure the range is clear and no one is downrange.

• Never dry-fire a bow (release the string with no arrow). It can break the bow and hurt you.

• Use a target that stops arrows (foam, layered straw, or a proper archery butt).

• Wear an arm guard or wrap the inside of your forearm to stop string slap if your inexperienced.

• Start with blunt points for early practice if you built your own arrows.

Step 2: The basic stance

Your feet and body set the foundation.

• Square stance (beginner default): Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, both toes pointing at the target. Weight evenly split.

• Open stance: Front foot rotated slightly toward target (about 10–20 degrees). Many find it more comfortable for aiming.

• Closed stance: Front foot turned slightly away from target. Less common for beginners.

Pick one and stick with it. Consistency matters more than which stance you choose. For most beginners, start square and try open later.

Tip: Keep knees soft, not locked. A slight bend helps absorb movement and keeps you balanced.

Step 3: Grip and bow hand

How you hold the bow determines torque and accuracy.

• Hold the bow lightly in the web between thumb and index finger — not a death grip.

• Keep the knuckles at about a 45-degree angle.

• Let the bow rest on the thumb-web and slightly on the base of your thumb and first joint.

• Your wrist should be relaxed and straight, not bent.

A tight grip twists the bow on release and sends arrows wild. Think of the bow hand as a hinge, not a clamp.

Step 4: Nocking the arrow

Place the arrow on the arrow rest, or your hand if you don't have an arrow rest and clip the nock onto the string.

• The cock (different colored) fletching usually faces away from the bow so it clears the shelf.

• The arrow should sit level and lightly on the rest or shelf—no heavy leaning.

• Keep the arrow pointed toward the target the whole time you nock it.

Step 5: Drawing the bow

This is where power starts.

• Raise the bow arm out straight but not locked, pointing at the target.

• Use your back and shoulder muscles to draw—don’t rely only on your arm. Think “pull with your shoulder blades.”

• Draw smoothly to a consistent anchor point every time (see next step).

• Keep your torso facing the target; avoid twisting mid-draw.

If you built a primitive bow, match draw weight to your strength. If the draw is too heavy, shorten your draw distance or use a lighter bow until form is solid.

Step 6: Anchor point 

Anchor point = where your hand touches your face every shot.

Common anchor points:

• The corner of your mouth (string to cheek sighting)

• The jawbone under your cheek

• The tip of the nose or a combination (string touching nose and mouth corner)

Pick one anchor and hit it the same way each time. Consistent anchor creates consistent shot power which  = consistent sights.

Step 7: Aiming basics

Beginners can choose two easy systems.

1. Instinctive aiming

   • Look at the target and trust your feel.

   • Keep both eyes open and focus on the aiming spot, not the arrow.

   • Let your body do the aiming through repetition.

2. Gap or reference aiming

   • Use a point on your bow (or a small mark on the string, the limbs, or the arrow tip) and learn the gap to the target at different distances.

   • Adjust the gap as distance changes. This is easy with homemade bows because you probably don’t have sights.

Either method works. Instinctive shooting takes longer to learn but is very natural; gap aiming gives you a predictable reference for distances every time.

Step 8: Release and follow through

Release is where good work turns into a good shot.

• Keep steady back tension as you release. Avoid jerking—think “let go, don’t push.”

• If using fingers, release smoothly—don’t pluck the string. If using a primitive tab, slide the string off fingertips evenly.

• After release, keep your bow arm up and maintain posture. This is follow-through. Don’t drop the arm immediately.

• Watch the arrow hit and note how it flew—this feedback is gold.

If your arrow goes left or right consistently, check your grip and follow-through. If it groups high or low, check your anchor and aim.

Step 9: Common shooting errors and how to fix them

• Arrow flies left (right-handed shooter): Often gripping too tight or torquing the bow. Loosen the grip.

• Arrow flies right: Finger release flinch or inconsistent anchor. Hold steady and rebuild anchor.

• Arrows fishtail or wobble: Poor fletching, crooked nock, or uneven spine. Inspect arrow shaft and fletching.

• Arrows hit low: Underestimating distance or short draw. Draw to consistent anchor and aim higher.

• Arrows hit high: Over-aiming or jerking the release. Slow down the release and keep posture.

Record what you change; small tweaks add up faster than big swings.

Step 10: Practice routine

Make practice repeatable and focused.

• Warm up by dry-drawing (without arrow) to your anchor point 10 times (don't dry fire though).

• Start at short range (10–15 yards) and shoot 6–8 arrows.

• Move back 5–10 yards as you group well.

• After every 12–20 arrows, check your form: stance, grip, anchor, release.

• Keep a simple log: distance, arrows fired, what you worked on, and one note (e.g., “looser grip”).

Quality practice beats quantity. Do short focused sessions more often than long sloppy ones.

Step 11: Testing and tuning

Your improvised bow and arrows need tuning.

• Test arrows one at a time. Look for wobble or inconsistent flight.

• Check nocks and fletching after each shot.

• Adjust point seating and balance if arrows wobble: move point slightly forward for stability, back for speed.

• If a shaft splits, retire it or shorten it into a practice arrow.

If you’re using pre-made steel arrow heads, double-check tightness before each session.

Tools and gear that help beginners

• Arm guard — stops string slap.

• Finger tab or glove — protects fingers and gives smoother release.

• Simple rest or shelf — keeps the arrow level when nocked.

• Targets — layered foam, straw, or bag targets work well.

Check our Hunting Tools collection for compact, field-friendly options.

Shooting a bow well starts with a steady routine and small, repeatable checks. Practice the stance, lock in a reliable anchor, learn a calm release, and tune your homemade arrows. Every consistent step you take compounds into more accurate, reliable shooting.

For more, check out our full bow, arrow, and shooting guide. 

→ How to Make a Bow

→ How to Make an Arrow

→ How to Shoot a Bow and Arrow

FAQ

Q: Which foot should I put forward?
A: If you’re right-handed, your left foot goes forward. If left-handed, put your right foot forward. Try square or slightly open stances to see what feels natural.

Q: How far should I stand from the target as a beginner?
A: Start at 10–15 yards. Once you can group arrows closely at that distance, move back 5–10 yards at a time.

Q: How many fingers do I use on the string?
A: Most beginners use three fingers (index above the arrow, middle and ring below), or a two-finger split if using a primitive tab. Use whatever gives a smooth, consistent release.

Q: How can I stop flinching on release?
A: Slow down your routine, practice dry draws, and focus on steady back tension instead of finger force. Video yourself if possible and check for movement at release.

Q: Is it okay to use instinctive aiming with a primitive bow?
A: Yes. Instinctive aiming suits primitive bows well. It takes practice, but it’s natural once your body learns the feel.

(© 2025 Grim Workshop®. All Rights Reserved. Grim Workshop® and Survival Cards® are registered trademarks of Grim Workshop. Grim Workshop® Original Reusable Tool Retention System • Proprietary Design • © 2025 All Rights Reserved.)