How to Make and Use a Hunting Spear

A spear is one of the oldest hunting tools. It is simple to make, easy to repair, and useful for both thrusting and throwing. This guide shows a beginner how to build a practical hunting spear from common materials, how to haft points securely, and how to use the spear safely and effectively for thrusting and for throwing.

What a Spear is, in Simple Terms

A spear is a long shaft with a strong point fixed to one end. The point does the damage, the shaft gives reach and leverage. Some spears are made to be thrust only, others are built for throwing. A good hunting spear balances strength, straightness, and secure hafting of the point.

Parts of a spear

1. Shaft, the long wooden pole you hold

2. Point or head, wooden, stone, bone, or metal

3. Socket, ferrule, or tang, how the head attaches to the shaft

4. Bindings and glue, sinew, cordage, or modern adhesives that hold everything tight

5. Butt or grip, sometimes reinforced so the rear does not split

How to Choose the Right Spear for Your Use

Not all spears are built the same. The best spear depends on how you plan to use it.

If you are hunting in close range, a longer, heavier spear gives you more reach and control. These are best for thrusting and are easier for beginners to handle safely.

If you plan to throw your spear, shorter and lighter shafts work better. They travel faster and are easier to control in the air, but require more practice to use accurately.

For water use like fishing or frog gigging, a multi-prong or barbed spear works best. These are designed to hold slippery targets and prevent them from slipping off after impact.

If you are just starting out, build one spear for thrusting first. It is easier to control, safer to learn with, and far more forgiving than throwing.

Choosing and preparing the shaft

Length and diameter

Best Spear Length and Balance for Beginners

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is using the wrong size spear.

A good beginner spear should:

• Be about as tall as you or slightly taller

• Feel balanced when held near the center

• Not feel tip-heavy or difficult to control

To find the balance point, place the spear across your hand and adjust until it sits level. That point is where your forward hand should grip.

If your spear feels too heavy at the front, it will be slow and hard to aim.
If it feels too light, it won’t carry enough force.

Balance matters more than weight.

• For thrusting only, 5 to 6 feet works well for most people.

• For throwing, shorter 4 to 5 foot spears are easier to manage.

• Diameter around 1 to 1.25 inch works for most shafts. Thicker shafts resist breakage but add weight.

Wood choices

• Ash, hickory, oak, and maple are great. They are springy and strong.

• Willow or hazel can be used for lighter practice spears.

• River cane or bamboo make great throwing shafts when you need light flex and straightness.

Straight grain matters

• Look down the shaft, roll it between your hands. It should roll true, no wobble.

• Avoid big knots and rot. Small knots are okay if the shaft flexes evenly.

Prepare the shaft

• Remove bark, smooth any bumps with a knife or file.

• Straighten minor bends by heating over coals and bending gently, then hold until cool.

• Seal the shaft with oil, wax, or resin to reduce moisture uptake.

Making or choosing a spear point

Options for points

• Sharpened wooden point for practice or simple thrusting. Whittle a long tapered point, then fire harden it.

• Bone or antler point lashed into a split shaft for primitive strength.

• Stone point flaked and hafted with resin and sinew, good for primitive builds.

• Metal spearhead Metal Spear heads are durable and reliable for quick deployment and long lasting results. 

Spear Point Styles

1) Fishing spear / gig spear

What it is

• Multi-prong or barbed head designed to grab slippery fish. Often 2–4 prongs or a single point with barbs.

Best uses

• Bowfishing, wading, shallow water hunting of fish, frogs, and similar targets.

Typical build & materials

• Steel prongs, welded to a small ferrule or socket. Can be homemade from nails, wire, or scrap metal. Works best on bamboo or cane shafts.

How it works

• Prongs or barbs expand or grab on impact so the fish can’t easily slide off.

Field tips

• Attach a retrieval line to the shaft. Use heavier, durable cord.

• Oiling after use prevents rust.

Pros / Cons

• Very effective in water, reusable.

• Can be dangerous; poor aim causes wounding or lost fish. Check local laws.

→ How to Make a Frog Gig Spear

→ View All Gig Spears

3) Broadhead spear

 

What it is

• Wide, razor-edged head similar to archery broadheads. Can be fixed blade or mechanical.

Best uses

• Medium to large game hunting where deep cutting and rapid blood loss give humane kills.

Typical build & materials

• Hardened steel blades mounted to a ferrule or socket. Often 2–4 blades.

How it works

• Large cutting surface severs tissue and causes heavy bleeding; built for terminal performance.

Field tips

• Only use if legal and if you know precise shot placement. Keep blades sharp and protected. Broadheads require properly tuned shafts and close-range shots.

Pros / Cons

• • Highly lethal if used correctly.

• − Dangerous, needs skill and legal clearance. Not for beginners without training.

→ View Broadhead Spears

4) Flat spear (leaf or lance style)

What it is

• A flattened, leaf-shaped point that broadens toward the center then tapers to edges (think classic spearhead).

Best uses

• General-purpose hunting, thrusting, and display of primitive craft.

Typical build & materials

• Forged or flaked stone, antler, or hammered metal shaped into a thin, wide profile and hafted into a socket.

How it works

• Thin edge cuts on entry; broader midsection creates larger wound channel for effective stopping power.

Field tips

• If using stone, lash tightly and back with resin. Metal versions need a solid socket and pin.

Pros / Cons

• • Versatile and good for thrusting.

• − Stone versions can be brittle; metal is best for repeated use.

→ View Flat Spears

5) Small-game spear (blunt & narrow point options)

What it is

• Small, often sharp-tipped or slightly blunted heads optimized for small animals (rabbits, birds).

Best uses

• Small game where you want quick stun/stop without overkill.

Typical build & materials

• Small metal points, sharpened bone tips, or blunt wooden knobs. Blunts transfer impact energy without deep penetration.

How it works

• Blunt points stun or break bone for quick dispatch; narrow sharp points allow precise hits for small targets.

Field tips

• Use small-game heads at very close range. Practice to ensure humane placement.

Pros / Cons

• Lightweight and easier to throw.

• Less effective on big game.

→ View Small Game Spears

Hafting methods

1. Split socket

   • Split the shaft tip down 1.5 to 2 inches.

   • Insert the tang or base of the point between the halves.

   • Close the split and wrap tightly with sinew, cord, or tape. Glue with resin or modern adhesive if available.

2. Socket fit

   • Use a metal ferrule that slides over the shaft end and receives the point.

   • Secure with pins, wrapping, and glue.

3. Tanged head

   • If the point has a tang, drill or carve a hole into the shaft and drive the tang in. Wrap and glue around the joint.

Check fit and alignment

• Roll the finished spear on a flat surface. The point should spin true, no wobble.

• Hit the shaft near the head firmly with the palm to test for looseness. Rebind if it moves.

Reinforcing the butt and grip

• Wrap the handle area with leather, cloth, or paracord for comfort and to prevent splitting.

• Add a small metal or wrapped butt cap for extra durability if you plan on thrusting into hard targets.

How to carry and store a spear safely

• Carry point down and away from people and gear.

• Use a simple sheath or wrap the point with cloth before putting it in a pack.

• Unstring or unhaft and store parts separately for long term storage to avoid stress on the head joint.

How to Thrust a Spear, step by step

Thrusting is controlled, close, and precise. It is the primary technique for heavier, longer spears.

1. Stance and footwork

   • Stand with feet shoulder width apart, knees slightly bent. If right handed, left foot forward. Keep weight balanced.

   • Step forward with the lead foot when you commit to the thrust.

2. Grip and hold

   • Hold near the balance point or with one hand close to the head and the other near the butt for reach and control.

   • Use a firm but not crushing grip.

3. Aim sights

   • Use the shaft as a sighting rod. Align the target with the tip and the forward hand.

   • Keep both eyes open for depth perception if you are comfortable doing so.

4. Generate power from the legs and core

   • Push with the hips and legs, not just the arms. The thrust should be a strong forward push, not a short jab.

   • Drive the rear hand forward while the front hand guides.

5. Follow through and withdraw safely

   • After contact, withdraw the spear straight back along the same line. Do not twist the shaft while withdrawing.

   • If the spear hits bone or a heavy object, avoid forcing it out. Retreat and reassess. Cutting and cleaning the wound is essential to avoid unnecessary suffering.

Safety notes for thrusting

• Keep your non thrusting hand clear of the target.

• Do not thrust at targets beyond effective reach. Overreaching causes loss of balance and control.

• Practice slow and controlled drills on padded targets before live practice.

Spear throwing technique

Throwing a spear is different. It relies on speed, timing, and the spear shaft acting like a lever or a flying rod.

Spears made for throwing

• Throwing spears are usually shorter and lighter, with a more flexible shaft and balanced point.
  

1. Grip and hold for throwing

   • Hold the spear near the balance point, not at the very butt. Some people use a two finger pinch behind the mid point.

   • For underhand throws hold more in the middle. For overhand throws hold slightly back so the spear rotates forward.

2. Stance and step

   • Face slightly sideways to the target, with your throwing shoulder back.

   • Step forward with the foot opposite your throwing arm as you release. This adds forward momentum and distance.

3. Throwing motion, overhand style

   • Bring the spear back under shoulder level, elbow up.

   • Pull forward with a strong hip and shoulder rotation, snap your wrist at the end to point the tip forward.

   • Release when your arm is extended toward the target and your weight has transferred to the front foot.

4. Throwing motion, underhand style

   • Swing the spear forward like a javelin toss, release at waist or hip height depending on range.

   • Underhand throws can be more accurate at short range for beginners.

5. Aim and release timing

   • Release is everything. Practice until your spear leaves the hand with point forward. Early or late release makes the spear tumble or land blunt.

6. Practice distances

   • Start at 10 to 15 yards for safety and accuracy. Gradually move back only when you can consistently hit a target.

Safety and ethics for throwing

• Only throw at legal game and in safe open ranges. Avoid ricochet risk by using soft backed targets.

• Throwing spears with heavy points can be lethal at short range. Practice, and respect local hunting laws and humane dispatch requirements.

Common Mistakes When Making a Spear

Even a simple tool like a spear can go wrong fast if you rush it.

Here are the biggest mistakes to avoid:

Using crooked wood
A slightly bent shaft might not seem like a big deal, but it ruins accuracy and control.

Weak hafting
If your spearhead loosens, the entire tool becomes unreliable and dangerous.

Over sharpening the shaft
A thin wooden tip can break easily. Strength matters more than razor sharp edges.

Ignoring grain direction
Wood that twists or spirals will never fly or thrust straight.

Skipping practice
A well-made spear is only useful if you know how to use it.

When to Use a Spear Instead of Other Tools

A spear fills a very specific role in survival and hunting.

It works best when:

• You need reach and distance from your target

• You are hunting in shallow water or thick brush

• You want a reusable tool that does not rely on ammo

• You need a simple tool that can be made and repaired in the field

Compared to bows, spears are easier to make.
Compared to traps, they are faster and more active.

It is one of the most reliable low-tech tools you can carry or build.

Related links

• Category: Hunting Tools

• → How to Make a Bow
• → How to Make an Arrow
  

Legal, safety, and ethical reminders

• Check local hunting regulations before using a spear for hunting. Many jurisdictions regulate weapon types and seasons.

• Only take shots that ensure a quick and humane kill. Practice and skill matter.

• Never use a spear where bystanders might be injured. Treat every spear as a dangerous weapon.

Now lets go make a Spear! 

When you make a spear and practice both thrusting and throwing, you build a useful survival skill set. Start simple, test carefully, and maintain your gear. A well made spear is low tech, repairable, and effective when used with good technique and respect for safety.

FAQ

Q: How long should my first spear be
A: For learning, make a 5 foot spear that works for both thrusting and short range throwing. As you gain skill, you can make longer or shorter models for specific tasks.

Q: Can I use a spear to hunt big game
A: In some traditional systems and places, yes. Modern hunting laws vary. Spear hunting large game requires advanced skill, and in many areas it is restricted or illegal.

Q: What is better for beginners, metal or wooden points
A: Metal points are easier to tune and more durable. Wooden or bone points are fine for practice and primitive skill building. Use metal when you want reliable performance.

Q: How do I know when the head is tight enough
A: The head should not wobble when you strike the shaft with the palm. If it moves at all, rebind and add glue until firm.

Q: Should I fire harden a wooden point
A: Yes for durability. Heat the tip near coals while rotating, stop when the wood darkens a little. Do not burn it.

Q: How do I stop a spear from splitting when hafting a head
A: Saw, don't split the wood, saw it or cut out a section for the spear head and drive a thin wedge after inserting the head.

Q: How far can I throw a hunting spear
A: A trained thrower can reach 30 yards or more, but effective, accurate hunting shots are usually much closer. For beginners, shoot within 10 to 20 yards.

Q: What is the best wood for making a spear shaft?
A: Strong hardwoods like ash, hickory, oak, and maple are the best for spear shafts because they balance strength and flexibility. For lighter spears or practice builds, willow, hazel, bamboo, or river cane also work well. The most important factor is straight grain and consistent thickness, not just the type of wood.

Q: What is the best wood for making a spear shaft?
A: Strong hardwoods like ash, hickory, oak, and maple are the best for spear shafts because they balance strength and flexibility. For lighter spears or practice builds, willow, hazel, bamboo, or river cane also work well. The most important factor is straight grain and consistent thickness, not just the type of wood.

Q: What is the difference between a thrusting spear and a throwing spear?
A: A thrusting spear is longer, heavier, and built for controlled, close-range use. A throwing spear is shorter, lighter, and designed to travel through the air. Thrusting spears are easier for beginners because they offer more control and stability.

Q: Can you hunt with a spear legally?
A: Spear hunting laws vary by state and country. Some areas allow spear hunting for certain species, while others restrict it completely. Always check your local wildlife regulations before using a spear for hunting to make sure you are following the law.

Q: How far can you accurately throw a spear?
A: Most beginners can accurately throw a spear within 10 to 15 yards. With practice, experienced users may reach 20 to 30 yards, but effective hunting range is usually much closer. Accuracy matters far more than distance.

Q: How do you keep a spearhead from coming loose?
A: A secure spearhead uses a combination of tight fitting, strong binding, and adhesive. Wrap the joint with sinew, cordage, or wire and use resin or glue to lock it in place. If the head moves even slightly, it needs to be re-secured before use.

Q: Is a wooden spear strong enough for hunting?
A: A properly made wooden spear can be effective for small game and practice. Fire hardening improves durability, but wooden tips are not as strong as metal or bone points. For repeated use or larger game, a reinforced or metal tip is more reliable.

Q: What is the easiest type of spear to make for beginners?
A: The easiest spear to make is a simple wooden spear with a fire-hardened tip. It requires minimal tools and can be built quickly in the field. As you gain experience, you can move on to adding stone, bone, or metal points.

Q: Can you use a spear for fishing or water hunting?
A: Yes, spears are commonly used for fishing and frog gigging. Multi-prong or barbed spearheads are best for water use because they help hold slippery targets like fish and frogs. A standard single-point spear is less effective in water.

Q: What are the parts of a spear?
A: A spear has four main parts: the shaft (the long handle), the point or head (the striking end), the hafting or connection (how the head is attached), and the grip or butt (the rear section used for control and durability).

Q: Why does my spear wobble when I throw it?
A: Wobble usually comes from poor balance, a crooked shaft, or bad release timing. Check that your spear is straight, evenly weighted, and that the head is aligned properly. Practice your release so the spear leaves your hand point-first.

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