How to Use a Drill Point for Bushcraft and Primitive Drilling

A drill point is a compact steel tip shaped like a tapered awl or primitive drill head. When mounted to a straight wooden dowel, it becomes a hand drill, palm drill, or bow drill bit — letting you bore holes in wood, bone, bark, leather, and even thin sheet materials.

Grim Workshop’s drill point is engineered from strong, hardened steel so it bites into material and resists bending. For field repairs, gear building, primitive crafting, and small camp construction, it’s one of the most versatile micro-tools you can carry.

This guide covers how to mount the drill point, how to drill with three different methods, and how to create clean, controlled holes using simple bushcraft techniques.

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What a Drill Point Is

A drill point is:

• A tapered conical metal tip

• Designed for rotational boring

• Stronger and sharper than a standard awl

• Intended to mount into a dowel or shaft

• Able to handle harder materials

• Compact enough to fit in an EDC or survival kit

Think of it as a primitive version of a drill bit that works without power tools.

Best Uses for a Drill Point

• Drilling holes in wood

• Creating holes in leather straps

• Lashing holes for pack repairs

• Carving bow-drill fire sets

• Making arrow nocks

• Crafting fish hooks (wood or bone)

• Making wooden toggles

• Drilling through thin bone

• Drilling through bark or horn

• Making trap triggers

• Building camp furniture

• Making friction-fit joints

• Creating holes for cordage

Pairs with:
→ How to Use a Dowel Maker
→ How to Use an Awl
→ How to Use a Blade
→ How to Use a Wood Scraper

How a Drill Point Works

The tapered shape allows:

1. Initial piercing

2. Progressive widening

3. Material removal by rotation

4. Self-centering during drilling

Unlike an awl, which punches material aside, a drill point cuts and removes material as you spin it.

Mounting the Drill Point Onto a Wooden Dowel

This is the most important step.
A drill point is only as good as its handle.

Step 1: Choose the Right Wood

Best options:

• Straight-grain hardwood

• Dry, seasoned wood

• Diameter: ½ inch to 1 inch for hand drills

• Length: 6–12 inches

Dowel should come from:
→ How to Use a Dowel Maker

Step 2: Cut a Center Slot or Drill a Starter Hole

You have two mounting options:

Option A: Split-Slot Mount

1. Split the end of the dowel about ½ inch deep

2. Slide drill point into the slot

3. Wrap tightly with cordage or wire

4. Add resin, pitch, or tree sap if available

This is the strongest and most reliable method.

Option B: Tapered Socket Mount

1. Use awl to make a pilot depression

2. Push drill point into the hole

3. Hammer gently to seat

4. Add cord wrap or resin

Good when wood is tough and won’t split.

Step 3: Secure With Wrapping

Use:

• Paracord inner strands

• Jute cord

• Fishing line

• Wire

• Plant fiber cordage

Pull tight.
Your drill point should not wiggle at all.

Three Ways to Use a Mounted Drill Point

1. Hand Drill Technique (Two-Hand Method)

Best for softer materials like:

• Willow

• Pine

• Cedar

• Leather

• Bark

Steps

1. Hold shaft between both hands

2. Spin quickly while pushing downward

3. Reposition hands as needed (“hand-over-hand” motion)

4. Keep consistent downward pressure

This gives good control, but is slower on hardwoods.

2. Palm Drill Technique (One-Hand Method)

Great for:

• Leather

• Bark

• Thin wood

• Arrow nocks

• Trap triggers

Steps

1. Grip dowel like a screwdriver

2. Twist back and forth

3. Apply steady downward pressure with wrist

4. Use small, quick motions

This gives precision for small holes.

3. Bow Drill Technique (Fastest Method)

This is for harder materials or bigger holes.

Steps

1. Wrap bow string once around your drill shaft

2. Place a bearing block on the top end

3. Push bow back and forth

4. Drill point spins rapidly

5. Apply light downward pressure

This removes material very quickly.

This is not fire-starting — this is drilling using a bow drill motion.

How to Start a Hole Cleanly

To reduce slipping:

1. Use the tip of a blade or awl to make a starter divot

2. Angle drill slightly at first

3. As drill bites, straighten to 90 degrees

4. Keep motion smooth and controlled

This prevents wandering and produces a clean entry hole.

How to Drill Through Wood (Step-by-Step)

Step 1: Create a Small Pilot Divot

Prevents slipping and wandering.

Step 2: Begin Slow Rotation

Let the point bite into the grain.

Step 3: Increase Speed Gradually

Faster spinning removes material efficiently.

Step 4: Clear Shavings Frequently

Pull bit out occasionally.

Step 5: Break Through Carefully

Slow down near the end to prevent blowout splinters.

Using the Drill Point for Arrow Making

The drill point is perfect for:

• Drilling nocks

• Drilling fletch holes

• Drilling sockets for inserts

• Straightening heat-treated shafts

• Creating balance and weight adjustments

Pairs with:
→ How to Use a Dowel Maker

→ How to Use a Wood Scraper

Using the Drill Point for Leather and Bark

Excellent for gear repairs:

• Belts

• Straps

• Holsters

• Sheaths

• Bark baskets

• Willow packs

• Bark canteens

A drill point gives cleaner holes than an awl because it removes material instead of stretching it.

Using a Drill Point on Bone, Antler, or Horn

These materials drill well using:

• Bow drill method

• Slow, steady pressure

• Frequent cooling

Create:

• Buttons

• Needles

• Fishing hooks

• Beads

• Toggle parts

• Arrowheads (in emergencies)

Sharpening a Drill Point

Use:

• Fine stone

• Ceramic rod

• Leather strop

Sharpen:

• The conical sides (lightly)

• The point (moderately sharp)

Avoid razor-sharp — you want durability, not fragility.

Pairs with:
→ How to Sharpen a Blade

How to Improvise a Drill Point in the Field

1. Sharpened Nail

Heat and harden if possible.

2. Bone or Antler Point

Scrape into a tapered shape.

3. Fire-Hardened Wood Point

Hardens enough for soft woods or leather.

4. Stone Point

Chip a micro-flake point.

5. Metal Scrap

File to shape and mount into wood.

Common Beginner Mistakes

• Trying to drill hardwood with hand technique only

• Not securing the drill point tightly

• Overheating bone or antler

• Using a dull drill point

• Not making a starter divot

• Pressing too hard and binding the point

• Drilling too fast without clearing chips

Expert Tips

• Use oil or water to lubricate holes in dense woods

• Bow drill method produces the cleanest, fastest bore

• Straight grain wood drills better than twisted grain

• For arrow nocks, drill from both ends to avoid splitting

• For leather, place a scrap of wood underneath

• Use the drill point to carve shallow countersinks

FAQ

Q: Can a drill point start a fire?
A: Not directly — but it can drill clean sockets for bow-drill fire sets.

Q: Will it drill metal?
A: Only thin soft metals (aluminum, brass). Not hardened steel.

Q: How sharp should the point be?
A: Sharp enough to bite, but not needle-thin.

Q: Can I mount it permanently?
A: Yes — many people keep one permanently set into a dedicated dowel.

Related Skill Series Posts

• → How to Use a Dowel Maker
  

• → How to Use an Awl
  

• → How to Use a Blade
  

• → How to Use a Wood Scraper

• → How to Use a Spool

• → How to Sharpen a Blade

(© 2025 Grim Workshop. All Rights Reserved. Grim Workshop, Survival Cards, and all related marks are registered trademarks of Grim Workshop. This article is part of the Grim Workshop Skill Series educational archive. No content may be reproduced, republished, stored, or adapted without written permission. For drill points, primitive tool components, and compact survival kits, visit www.grimworkshop.com.)